Two Bottles Idig
We are having two bottles of Riesling from the Königsbacher Idig vineyard made by winery Christmann and Johann F. Ohler from years 2013 and 2016.
Two wines from the same site deliver always an exciting story. Today they come from the Königsbacher Idig in the Palatinate. One is from Weingut Christmann, the other from Weingut Johann F. Ohler. This winery, unknown to me until then, was recommended to us during our last visit to the Palatinate in another winery and was conveniently on our way anyway. The comparison is not intended to decide who makes the better wine, but to illustrate how completely different wines can be even if growing in the same vineyard when made by different winegrowers from the same grape variety. It should be kept in mind that the wines, at least in terms of price, play in completely different leagues and of course come from different years. It is exciting nevertheless.
We start with the older one, the Idig by Christmann from the year 2013. While we have already tasted the lower part of the quality pyramid represented by the Gutswein, we are now at the top with the Idig. Highly reduced yield, spontaneously fermented and matured in large wooden barrels. In the glass, the wine has a creamy nose, with pineapple, quince jelly and mirabelle in the background. Many yellow notes and although the sugar is only just over one gram, there is also something sweet to be found.
When drinking the wine fills the mouth completely, it has a really nice spiciness, but is rather quiet in its appearance, thoughtful, but it tells you stories for a long time. It is a filigree and elegant wine with an infinite length, which with a little butter and honey develops on the tongue and it always remains perfectly balanced. You have to bring time and let the wine tell its story. Of course you can put it away for a few more years, but I don’t have the feeling of having pulled the cork too early. In the course of the evening it becomes longer and longer and more yellow, the nose more fruity. On the second day it’s even more complex, infinitely long and changes on the tongue for a long time, creamy, grapefruit, honey, a bit of structure from the wood in the nose, then again silky soft on the palate. This is really great wine.
The Riesling JFO from the Ohler Winery from 2016 is quite a contrast. In the nose flavored tea, with mango, passion fruit and other exotic fruits. It reminds of peach ice tea, a bit artificial, a bit nostalgic. But all in all a great smell. In the mouth then more acidity than the Christmann, and more spice. Surely much louder, more direct, the difference in age between the two wines certainly has something to do with it. It is also long, but the story told here gets to the point faster. Don’t get the wrong impression, this is not a simple wine, not at all. It is simply completely different.
In summer on the balcony I would prefer the JFO a lot. Fresh without being boring. The ideal heat companion. And then, when autumn comes, lock yourself into a room with the Grosses Gewächs on a rainy weekend. And let it tell its story.