Materne & Schmitt - Winninger Brückstück 2016
We drink a Riesling from the Terrassenmosel from the Winninger Brückstück made by the Materne & Schmitt winery in 2016.
I first stumbled upon the Materne & Schmitt winery by chance in a SWR documentary. Two friends, who grow wine on the steep terraced Moselle in extreme terrain with a lot of manual labour, vines in single stock training, giving the wines time and space and the focus on the vintage typicality in the cellar made me want to taste the wines. I did at Mythos Mosel 2018 and liked them a lot, so some bottles of it found their way into the cellar.
The Riesling today from 2016 comes from the Winninger Brückstück. There, as the name suggests, stones were once cut for bridges over the Moselle. Today, vines about 40 years old grow there as single vines.
The wine has a bit of a stink. In the nose there is hardly any fruit, but a lot of stone. In the mouth rather cool aromas, what remains on the tongue reminds me of kumquats. With air there is a hint of fruit in the nose, mixed with some gummy bear flavour without the sweetness and maybe papaya. A salty feeling remains on the lips. The wine changes a lot with air, everything is in motion. In the mouth it is very soft with a nice edge at the back of the palate, which is funny enough not to be felt at all on the tongue. There it simply stays for a long time. With air, the fruit in the nose goes back and the gummy bear flavour disappears completely.
On the second day the mineraly spice completely dominates the nose, like wet stone it reaches out of the glass. But the wine is more difficult to grasp than on the first day. Constantly you think you smell a fruit or another known aroma, try to mentally tie it down and then it has already disappeared again and has been replaced by something new. The saltiness has now also reached the palate and is a lot of fun. I still like it.