29.10.2024

Keller - Von der Fels 2020

We're drinking a bottle of Riesling Von der Fels 2020 by Klaus Peter Keller from Rheinhessen.

A bottle of Riesling Von der Fels from Weingut Keller on a wooden table. In the background, a wine glass and stacks of books are visible. In front of the bottle, the cork lies stuck to a waiter's knife.

If you ask me who the most famous German winemaker is, I’ll almost certainly say Klaus Peter Keller. Then, for a moment, I think maybe I should have said Egon Müller instead, but by then, it’s already out. And anyway, Egon Müller’s wines are priced in regions I’m unwilling to venture into. This is true of Keller’s high end wines like G-Max as well, especially on the secondary market, but many of his other Große Gewächse have, in recent years, remained somewhat affordable, provided you can buy them directly from the winery. And there are also his estate and village-level wines below that. I spent just under 20 euros on this bottle, so pretty much what you’d pay for a second wine from one of the grand vineyards in a lot of wineries. Unfortunately it is not quite in that price region anymore though. The Von der Fels is often called the “little brother” of G-Max, which is probably nonsense. I can’t judge for myself, as G-Max, the wine Keller is famous for and which is only available in the legendary “Keller Case” for loyal customers, has never graced my table, and most likely never will. This “little brother” label sounds a bit like saying, “It’s made in the same factory on the same line, so it must be just as good”. Which is clearly absurd because it ignores the most important thing, the ingredients.

The ingredients, so the grapes, for Von der Fels come from younger vines in the Kirchspiel, Hubacker, and Abtserde vineyards. These are big names, and at up to 25 years old, some of these vines are already at the point where others would start labeling them as “Old Vines”. Not so here. Keller is an estate with a history dating back to the 18th century, though its major rise to prominence has only come in recent decades. Whatever one thinks about the secrecy surrounding which specific vineyard produces the G-Max, or the winery’s influence on secondary market prices and subscriptions, there’s no denying that Keller has done a lot for German wine’s international reputation. With the next Keller generation, represented by Felix, now involved, I wish them all the best and hope this legacy continues. As a hobby wine writer, it was only a matter of time before one of their bottles showed up here. “Little brother” or not, there’s a certain expectation I have for this wine.

When you put your nose in the glass, it’s tight. There’s delicate yellow fruit, very fresh mirabelles, just at the edge of ripeness. But not those ready to fall from the branch. Anyone who knows mirabelles knows that line is a fine one. There are also plums just before ripeness, and a hint of pineapple. Behind that is stone and minerality, and despite the tightness and energy in the wine, it’s harmonious and just plain lovely. The Riesling drinks this way too. It has great drive, juicy and bursting with fruit acidity, along with depth and length. This is Riesling, obviously, but you know what I mean. It’s pure Riesling, and that makes me happy.

The wine becomes spicier on the nose overnight, but it doesn’t get louder. A touch of alcohol has crept in, which wasn’t there on the first night. The fruit seems riper now, creamier, while the wine feels more mineral. If it weren’t for that slight hint of alcohol, it would be magnificent. I must admit, I enjoyed sticking my nose in the glass more on the first evening. On the palate, it still has great drive, the structure has increased, and there’s a hint of bitter grapefruit on the finish, followed by a creamy note on the tip of the tongue. It’s still very good, but it doesn’t quite match the brilliance of the first night. On the first evening, the wine had a radiance and inner clarity that somehow faded. It’s been a while since I’ve wanted to finish an entire bottle on the first night, this is one of those times. As mentioned earlier, this is my first Keller bottle above the estate level, and probably my first Riesling from him. I don’t know how his other wines behave with time, but the hint of alcohol disappears after a few hours. It turns creamier, calmer, more orange than grapefruit, and harmony reigns once again. Still, the first night was better.

What’s missing on both the first and second nights are signs of aging, not a hint. Though it’s hard to believe, the 2020 vintage is now four years ago, so the wine could easily continue aging in the cellar for some time. And really, my criticisms are just nitpicking. But we Swabians love to nitpick, and besides, it’s reassuring to know that even here, it’s just water being used to cook, though admittedly very good water. Especially for under 20 euros, this is a whole lot of Riesling, and it has everything I want from a Riesling. And to be totally honest, I am now very curious to know what one from a bottle with an orange label tastes like.

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